Chronicle Three....almost to the Johnstone Straits!

May 31  We're at Shearwater Marine Resort.  That title covers a huge range of facilities.  This one is actually one of the more complete examples with a real store, a restaurant, and a lovely laundry.  (Only boaters and apartment dwellers would consider a laundry lovely.)  

They also have a pathetic internet connection.  And I am bummed.  I can't download pictures.  Well, I can, but I want to go to sleep tonight.  So, this picture of Jamie on our mast is all you get until we get to Prince Rupert.

'Way back in Sidney, Jamie installed our anemometer mid-day on Friday and  we spent that night anchored in Montegue Harbor on Galliano Island with half of the pleasure boats from lower Vancouver Island.  The beautiful weather of the last two weeks, combined with the Victoria Day 3-day weekend, made it mandatory that anyone owning a boat had to have a doctor’s excuse if they were not using it.  Montegue is a huge harbor, so it wasn’t crowded; it just felt like summer time. 

Greywolf transited Gabriola Pass Sunday morning at slack water, watching the boats stream into the Gulf Islands from the Straits of Georgia, headed for Madera Park in Pender Harbor on the mainland. We were disappointed  that the outstanding public- area landscaping in this tiny village had begun to show neglect. ‘Still a friendly spot with a great bookstore.  And Ice cream.

Rain and more rain found us on Monday. We anchored early in the evening in Squirrel Cove near Desolation Sound where Allie and Sybil had played like wild horses last year.  We decided not to  tell Allie that we were anchored right next to “Springer Island” and had no intention of launching the dinghy in the RAIN and gathering darkness.  She had to pee on the foredeck. We have a salt water wash-down hose, brushes, and boat soap to keep the foredeck clean, but with the anchor chain muck, it is a losing battle.  

THERE BE DRAGONS  The next morning we headed for Yaculta Rapids, Gillard Passage, and Dent Narrows.  This area takes careful planning for a low-powered boat; they are close together and you try to make it through on the same slack water window.(Greywolf has a 105 hp Lugger engine.  Top speed 8.5.  We cruise at about 5 or 6 knots; fine for former sailors.)  Doug fell in line behind a fishing boat:  local knowledge is The Best.  And I began to complain.  

You’re following too close.  You’re still too close.  We’re late.  Can you pass him?

While reading our cruising guides on how to transit these waters, I had carefully studied the horrific photos of good-sized fish boats going sideways as they entered the rapids at the wrong time.  I had visions of the..... careening out of control in a whirlpool the size of a small house, and us slamming into her.  ‘Too much caffeine.  If Doug could have launched the dinghy and sent me to Big Bay, he would have.  As we were coming out of Dent (bearing a strong resemblance to Green Lake early on a June day), Doug did the next best thing:  You take the wheel!  Greywolf and I chugged around Devil’s Hole (mirror calm) and on to Shoal Bay.

Shoal Bay is the site of one of the few Gov Wharfs still supported by the BC government; Fisheries uses it as a base for their boats.  Most of the numerous wharfs built and maintained by the g’ment for public use were given to the local governments, most of whom have limited funds to maintain them.  Shoal Bay was at one time the site of a successful hotel (think ‘40s and ’50’s).  A Yank, Mark, purchased the hotel in the 90’s and it burned down the next year.  He was advised by the locals not to rebuild as he had planned: build small separate buildings.  If one burns, you have a chance of saving the others.  Insurance is not a 

commodity here.

While reading our cruising guides on how to transit these waters, I had carefully studied the horrific photos of good-sized fish boats going sideways as they entered the rapids at the wrong time.  I had visions of the..... careening out of control in a whirlpool the size of a small house, and us slamming into her.  ‘Too much caffeine.  If Doug could have launched the dinghy and sent me to Big Bay, he would have.  As we were coming out of Dent (bearing a strong resemblance to Green Lake early on a June day), Doug did the next best thing:  You take the wheel!  Greywolf and I chugged around Devil’s Hole (mirror calm) and on to Shoal Bay.

 Shoal Bay was at one time the site of a successful hotel (think ‘40s and ’50’s).  A Yank, Mark, purchased the hotel in the late 90’s and it burned down the next year.  He was advised by the locals not to rebuild as he had planned: build small separate buildings.  If one burns, you have a chance of saving the others.  Insurance is not a commodity here.

The Shoal Bay Pub is open. They have beer. In a can.  And pretzels.  (The pictures will help.)  Mark and his wife have built a charming cabin with the biffy and shower almost complete.  The public laundry and shower are in operation.  

And the building continues with labor provided by WWOOFers.  I think I have that right:  Willing Workers On Organic Farms.  Sari (a Finn) and her husband Roger (a Kewi) are there for a few weeks on their way to Finland to visit, as is Nacho (Ignacio) from Spain with his two degrees in literature and no hope of employment at home.  We also met Randy, an Ojibway who migrated to the central coast and has learned to carve.  He showed us a Bookwas mask and we commissioned him to carve one for us.  We’ll let you know how that goes.

As far as Allie was concerned, the beer in a can was far over-shadowed by Fanny, the 14 month old Dobbie.  DOGZZ CAN RUN!!!   A good time was had by all.

Greene Rapids at 10:40 the next day, then had to “hang” for hours for the slack at Whirlpool Rapids 11 miles away.  We cruised up long inlet and practiced launching the paravanes.  ‘Spent a quiet evening at Douglas Bay--the only boat where we have found at least five boats on our previous stops.

To be continued....eventually, the internet and I may get to you June.